Fixing a Wobbly Standing Desk with Shelf Brackets

My standing desk was awesome but it was too wobbly – the whole desk shook like an earthquake every time I touched it or typed.  The fix was easy: I used two heavy duty shelf brackets to anchor my standing desk to the nearby wall.  The desk is rock solid now.  I can give it a good shove and it barely moves!

Here’s my easy guide to fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets.

Choosing Shelf Brackets

Shelf brackets come in surprisingly large variety of colors and sizes.  You’ll probably want at least two brackets.

Look for a shelf bracket design with:

  • 90 degree angle (some are kinda… off)
  • A good 8″+ inches on each end (mine are 12″ x 8″) but not unnecessarily large
  • Heavy duty design – go rugged, leave the “pretty” shelf brackets for lightweight shelves :)
standing_desk_heavy_duty_shelf_bracket

A prime specimen: this 12″ Knape & Vogt heavy duty bracket will lock your standup desk in place.

I used a pair of 12″ x 8″ heavy duty shelf brackets from the Big Orange Box.

fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

My standing desk’s brackets: 12″ x 8″ of raw desk-anchoring power.

Positioning the Brackets

Your needs will vary – put your brackets wherever makes sense considering the walls around your desk and the underside of your desk.  My desk is up against a window, so I had to work around the full-length curtain.

My brackets had to be positioned:

  1. Outside of the curtain’s range of motion…
  2. …but still far enough apart to stabilize the desk and help support its weight
  3. …and not over any studs because my drill isn’t badass enough to drill into a stud

The curtain-closing requirement pretty much forced the first bracket to the center of the window, and the other one somewhere to the right of the window. That meant the left bracket would be smack dab in the center of the window, and the right bracket somewhere near the L-shaped desk’s corner.

To position the bracket, I figured out where the stud wasn’t, held the bracket in place against the wall, and marked its holes with a pencil.

fix a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

Ideal bracket locations: clear of the window and far enough apart underneath the desk to make having two brackets worthwhile.

Mounting the Brackets into Drywall

I used “EZ Anchors” to secure the screws, which prevents the screws from getting all wobbly in the wall.

fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

EZ Anchor (plastic) and metal screw.

EZ Anchors are easy to use.  You can twist ’em right into location, or drill a tiny pilot hole first to make them go in even easier.

  1. Figure out where your screw will go (just hold the shelf bracket in the place where you want it to go)
  2. Mark the wall through the holes in the shelf bracket
  3. Put the shelf bracket down
  4. Screw the plastic EZ Anchor into the wall
  5. Hold the shelf bracket in place
  6. Screw the screw into the EZ Anchor

Don’t skip EZ Anchors if you aren’t screwing your brackets into studs.  Repeated nudges on the desk will eventually soften the screw’s attachment to the drywall and weaken your brackets.

fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

EZ Anchor box looks like this.

All Done!

My wobbly standing desk is rock solid.  Check ’em out, here’s one of the brackets:

fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

And here’s the other under the window:

fixing a wobbly standing desk with shelf brackets

And that’s it! It’s done! And it’s awesome.

Project Wrap Up, Project Wrap Up!

( To the tune of Winter Wrap Up ! )

Yesterday (Saturday) was one of those marathon days where all the last pieces come into place for numerous projects around the house!  Behold, our death march:

1) Hung the finished cabinet doors in the bathroom

2) Installed the new knobs and pulls  (except for the big drawer, which needs a knob that fits a larger screw than the rest of them)

3) Stuck on little clear bumpers to prevent the painted wood from knocking against the frame when the drawers and cabinets close.

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4) Installed a new water supply for the toilet, which has been leaking despite efforts at tightening the bolts.  This sweet water supply kit came with multiple washer sizes, which was great because I had no idea what size ours would need and our Home Depot is annoyingly far.

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Here’s the awkward and corroded metal pipe it replaced:

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Draining the toilet tank: wrapup_bath3

Working in the awkward toilet cubby:

 

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It’s off!

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It’s on!

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5) In the spirit of finishing long-overdue projects, we finally installed the drawer pulls onto the kitchen’s two drawers.

Here we are lining up the template… wrapup_kitchen1

…drilling…

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…done!  Why did we put this off for 8 months?  I have no idea.

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6) ATE THIS DELICIOUS BLUEBERRY BREAD OMG

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7) Shut off the electricity to downstairs and replaced two receptacles and four switches.  The receptacles, even with all their fat hard-to-bend wires, were the easy part for once.  The switches gave us far more trouble.  After wasting 30 minutes trying to figure out what the hell was wrong with the wiring on the two slider door switches, I called my dad who pointed out that the switches are actually linked and use special hardware referred to as a “3-way switch”.   One (surprise) 40-minute trip to Home Depot later, we had the correct hardware and functioning switches.

8) Moving right along (now with functional switches and outlets!) we built a plastic cocoon for the range hood and applied spray-on ceiling texture over the now-dry spackle

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One secret to successful ceiling texture: warm up the cans in a hot water bath before use

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9)  Removed all the painter’s tape from bathroom mirror and backsplash

10) Put everything back into the bathroom 

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11) Installed two shelf brackets under my standing desk to stabilize it.  Read about my standup desk project here: Part 1, Part 2.

12)  Put everything away: all of the tools, tapes, levels, paint, plastic, work clothes, vacuumed our work areas and basically returned the house to presentable status.  This deserves its own step: project cleanup is a project in itself.

13) Collapsed from exhaustion sometime around 8pm.  Mission complete!

Refinishing the Master Bathroom Vanity, Day 4

It’s enamel day! But first, I’m going to scrape out all this shitty shelf paper from the 70s.  The shelf paper has always been torn and stained and half-missing, so the way it looks in this photo is actually how it looked all the time.

day4_scrapingshelfpaper

The primer’s dry so I started first thing this morning in hopes of having enough time to do two coats before bedtime.  The can recommends a 16 hour dry time, but I used a 10 hour dry time between coats on my kitchen cabinets and nothing exploded so…

My supplies:

day4_supplies

This is a straightforward process: take the paint from the bucket, get it on the brush and the roller, and apply it to the primed surfaces.  Avoid pooling and dripping – multiple thin coats > fewer thick drippy coats.

day4_brush

day4_rollering

 

Here you can see the primed shelves within the cabinet.  They’ll get the same primer and enamel treatment, which should hold up fine to the occasional shampoo bottle shuffle. Much better than the nasty paper!

day4_paintedframe

That’s where I left it today around noon.  I’ll come back around 8pm and do another thin layer on everything.

I put the finishing touches on everything the next day.

Refinishing the Master Bathroom Vanity, Day 3

Today I finished sanding (WOOO) and began priming!

In between those two steps, I spent nearly an hour vacuuming sanding dust out of everything and off every surface about to be primed, and before I actually began painting on any primer, I used this liquid deglosser on every surface I intend to paint (wood and painted frame alike).

deglosser

With everything so aggressively sanded this feels like a formality, but hey, anything that helps the primer and paint stick is good in my book (and I already own the stuff).

I like to apply paper-thin coats of primer.  There are many advantages to this: 1) cuts down on primer use (primer is for holding paint on, it’s not for coverage – that’s what paint’s for); 2) reduces the chances of drips or pooling and 3) dries fast!

priming_brush

I would have rather pulled out this backsplash in preparation for tiling something, but I’m 99% sure it’s bearing the load of the mirror.  Not wanting to deal with removing (and replacing) this gigantic (and really, quite nice) mirror, I decided to make the best of this backsplash situation by sanding and painting it along with the rest of the vanity.

The countertop is lavender (which is probably my least favorite color ever) but I feel like it’s looking a lot more grey as the rest of the room’s lavender (walls, vanity frame) gets painted over.  Someday I would like to put another nice solid surface countertop in here, but that can come later.

priming_backsplash

priming_room

The cabinet doors are sitting atop various canned foods to dry.  This method served me well when I was refinishing the kitchen cabinet doors and continues to serve well here, allowing the sides to dry and drips to fall (instead of pooling on an edge).

priming_cabinetdoors

I am using my favorite primer, Zinsser SMART PRIME, which is the same stuff I used for the kitchen (which has held up fabulously over the past almost-year):

 

Continue on to Day 4 here!